Glyndŵr's Way: Plans and expectations

2020 is the year of Covid 19, the coronavirus pandemic. Rules and regulations, designed to prevent people dying of this new disease, are constantly changing. After being locked down in my home city by local restrictions and then the Welsh "firebreak" for several weeks I will shortly be able to travel around the nation of Wales, but no further. During the lockdown I have watched films and documentaries about famous long distance walking trails, such as the Appalachian Trail ("A Walk in the Woods"), the Camino de Santiago ("The Way") and the Pacific Crest Trail ("Wild"), but as I will not be allowed to leave Wales for the foreseeable future my choice was more restricted, the two on my short list were Glyndŵr's Way and the Wales Coast Path. As it is now November I felt the Coast Path might be a better choice at some other time of year. I have walked parts of the Pembrokeshire Coast path and the South Wales Coast (which are sections of the Wales Coast Path) at different times in winter and in summer. Rain and wind prevailed in winter. While this was a good test of my clothing, I enjoyed the beaches, villages and ice creams more in spring and summer. Rain and wind was unlikely to make the Glyndŵr's Way pleasant, but in general I had lower expectations of this route. Now seemed as good a time as any to walk it.

One of Britain and Wales' National Trails, Glyndŵr's Way is 220 kilometres, 135 miles long. Forming a "V", it starts at the town of Knighton on the Welsh border with England, heads west to Machynlleth then returns east to Welshpool. Other than covering much of Mid Wales, admittedly a neglected part of the country, the logic of the switchback is not obvious. Named after the Welsh hero Owain Glyndŵr, who fought the English between 1400 and 1412, the route passes close to where he fought a number of his battles. Machynlleth is famous as Glyndŵr assembled a parliament there with his allies (and also for its Alternative Technology Centre, established many years ahead of the current interest in climate change).

I recently walked the Cambrian Way. Unlike Glyndŵr's Way it has not been awarded the tribute of National Trail status, but based on my research and travels through Wales, I am expecting the Cambrian Way to be the more scenic, dramatic and challenging trail. I will probably find more comfort on Glyndŵr's Way as I have been able to book accommodation for most nights, unlike the wild camping that was necessary on the Cambrian Way when bed & breakfasts and hotels were either closed (due to Covid 19) or full. To avoid that outcome I have booked lodgings for all but one of my nights on the trail (I am still awaiting a response from the final place). Not normally my practice as it limits the freedom to walk for longer or shorter days depending on how I feel at the time, however, the area is in general not the best wild camping country with much farmland (as well as being illegal in Wales) and November is not the best time for sleeping out due to the rain, mud and fewer hours of daylight. The other risk is that the Welsh government will change the rules again if hospital admissions and deaths shoot up. I have bought a small bivy bag in case of problems making it necessary to sleep out, always useful in an emergency anyway. 

Knighton, the starting point of the trail, is on the Heart of Wales railway line, but at the time of planning the line was closed due to storm related landslips, so I considered alternatives. Bus links were not good from where I live and ideally I needed to avoid transiting through England (which may or may not be within the rules). I decided to catch a train to Abergavenny and walk from there up to Knighton on Offa's Dyke trail over three days. This is another National Trail which follows the border of Wales. I have walked Offa's Dyke Trail before and the section I will be repeating includes a one of the best sections, a scenic ridge walk along the Black Mountains, with extensive vistas across the border into England, to reach the book filled village of Hay on Wye. Another 78 kilometres on my trip, but so what.

After three days on Offa's Dyke I expect to complete Glyndŵr's Way in nine days based on the Cicerone guide. I am hoping the timings in the guide are correct as Bed & Breakfasts and hotels have been asking for my arrival times, and I have based them on the guide. I will also be walking in the dark if they are on the optimistic side.

Sheep are ubiquitous on Glyndŵr's Way