Hay on Wye to Old Radnor

A walk up and down through a patchwork of green fields.

Fortunately the weather did not match the forecast, although there was some heavy rain, for much of the day the black, threatening clouds just glowered in the sky. I began by window shopping around Hay on Wye, in addition to the bookshops for which the town is famous, there are lots of quirky little stores and several interesting bakeries. I did not get passed the first one without stopping to buy my lunch, everything looked so attractive to eat, I bought more than was good for my figure...

Streets of Hay on Wye

Offa's Dyke trail took me out of town on the road bridge across the River Wye and then on a path following the wooded river bank before turning into fields on the flood plain to the first of the hills. I had forgotten that much of Offa's Dyke path repeatedly climbs up and down, into and out of valleys and over ridges. The hills are not high but there are a lot of them. This first section included a path between hedges, and through trees by a stream. Later I crossed grass fields and uncultivated common land. Russet coloured trees and reddish bracken marked the approach of winter as I hiked along single track roads, lanes and footpaths.

Trees in their autumn dresses caught by a fleeting pool of sunlight.

St Mary's church in Newchurch looked worthy of a closer inspection. Not only was it open, there were also tea making facilities, so I put the kettle on and enjoyed a cup of tea with my lunch, leaving a modest donation and my thanks in the visitor's book.

To avoid entering England, illegal due to the current Covid 19 regulations, I left the Offa's Dyke Trail as it climbed Hergest Ridge, and followed roads to reach the tiny village of Old Radnor. Not ideal as for much of the way the road was bordered by hedges rising vertically, directly from the edge of the road, giving me no verge to jump onto if cars came too close, and at bends, the hedge made me invisible to approaching cars. As streaks of pink appeared above the massed, dark rain clouds I was glad to turn off onto a quiet single track road to climb up a final hillside to reach the welcoming Harp Inn and my bed for the night. Another night with some excellent food. An older couple at a nearby table questioned whether the vaccines for Covid, which were expected soon, would be safe, given the speed at which they were developed. I assured them that they would be given the enormous focus on their development and testing.

The welcoming sight of the Harp Inn as darkness was falling

.