After leaving the Harp Inn I looked in on the village church opposite. No services today even though it was Sunday, due to Covid restrictions, but the door was open so I looked in the admire the finely carved, wooden rood screen. The building dates from the 15th century, replacing an earlier church destroyed during the Glyndŵr uprising.
Although the first part of the day was sunny, bringing out the orange and russet colours of the autumn trees, there was a cold wind and I was glad of my gloves. A bit of road walking was needed to re-join Offa's Dyke. A sign indicated I was leaving Wales, then a little way down the same road a second sign welcomed me back into Wales, the border seems to move around somewhat erratically. Such transiting through England is I understand within the Covid regulations, but I was reminded of a conversation I overheard in the bar last night. Apparently in a nearby Welsh town the police were checking car number plates in a pub's car park to make sure they had not crossed the border from England to obtain some refreshment, contrary to the current rules. One man was questioned. It seems that he now lives in Wales, but he neglected to update his car's registration document from his earlier English address.
Joining Offa's Dyke path I followed it up and down hills beside green fields, some populated with sheep or cows. Groups of trees broke the skyline. It took me a little time to realise I was walking on a section of Offa's Dyke, consisting of a grassy, often tree lined bank and a ditch alongside. Much of the structure, built in the 8th century by Offa, King of Mercia, has disappeared, eroded away or flattened by farming, and Offa's Dyke path does not always follow the Dyke, but today the bank and ditch that forms the Dyke were visible over considerable distances. I wondered if King Offa had people walking the Dyke, as I was today, watching out for any marauding Welsh who might attack his dominions.
By lunchtime the sun had long gone, and the cold breeze brought occasional showers, so I set up my bivi among a few pine trees to give me some shelter while I ate my lunch. A couple of hours later I was walking into Knighton. As I was early, I visited the Offa's Dyke visitor's centre (closed) and peered in the windows of the small shops, a number seemed to be selling "Airfix" models, which you build by gluing plastic parts together and then painting, they have become popular during recent Covid lockdowns.
The Horse and Jockey proved very much a local's pub, with much bantering between the customers. Cauliflower cheese with garlic bread and a pint of beer for dinner.
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