Sunday, November 22, 2020

Llanbrynmair to Lake Vrynwy on Glyndŵr's Way: Day 7

A rain free day but a long one at over 30 kilometres. 

After two days of rain and wind today there were blue skies visible beyond the clouds. After a big breakfast the first part of the walk took me up a ridge. From the top, thanks to the clear weather I could see hills or mountains in all directions. Green where they were farmed for sheep, or else straw coloured grass or red, dead bracken where the hills were topped with moorland. The valleys were neatly divided up by hedges with the occasional farmhouse and its associated collection of modern barns. A flock, or rather a murmuration of starlings was moving around, all the birds landing on a patch of grass or some trees, then all taking off again for no particular reason

Blue skies after days of rain giving some distant views. 

Path over moorland, some of which was pretty boggy threatening more water in my boots, note the yellow topped post marking the trail.

There was a long road section which I appreciated as I could cover the ground faster. The earlier sunset at this time of year meant I needed to get to my destination before it was too dark to see my way across uneven and wet ground. Nevertheless, the café in the village of Llangadfan was too tempting to speed past, I had a quick latte and Bakewell tart. In the afternoon there was an extensive forestry plantation with lots of signs warning of forestry operations. I saw no evidence of any work in progress and as it was Sunday afternoon I thought it most unlikely that anyone was working, so continued along the forest tracks. I finally sighted Lake Vrynwy as dusk was falling.

Finger post showing the way into the forestry plantation, the lichen growing on it suggests it has been there a while.

View of Lake Vrynwy and the retaining dam in the darkening light. Excess water is spilling over it.

The lake is a reservoir for Liverpool. Recent rain had made it so full that water was spilling over the top of the dam, its foaming whiteness standing out in the surrounding darkness.

Leaving Glyndŵr's Way, I followed the road across the top of the dam, then up to the Lake Vrynwy Hotel for the night. Dating from 1890, this large hotel is much posher than I am used to. They checked my temperature with a wall mounted "gun" before letting me check in to confirm I was not suffering from the Coronavirus. It kept reporting my temperature was "Lo", but the receptionist kept trying until it volunteered an actual reading. I have been assigned a time slot for dinner and breakfast to minimise crowding. My room and its associated bathroom is large and I was given two free face masks and a dinky bottle of antibacterial hand gel to protect me from the virus. Diner was of the style that artistically arranges a smallish portion of food on a large plate, which meant I managed three courses. While I preferred the lamb shank I had last night, which was rather less expensive, I did enjoy the opportunity of sampling their port with my cheese course as an Edwardian gentleman might do, and enjoyed a glass of whisky as a digestif, Penderyn as I was in Wales (and as they had no Macallan's).

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